It has been a while, but it’s time to get back to Japan.

The car opened up a lot of opportunities for exploration of the main island of Okinawa, but there was no need for motorised transport on the smallest islands we visited. Ferrying out to Aka island on a high speed boat was a pleasant experience (the return, not so much) but the island was imminently walkable. Aka forms a three island chain with Geruma and Fukaji, connected by rather impressive mega-structure-esque bridges. Aka is home to, depending on which source you believe, fewer than 300 people. Geruma is even less populated with around 80 residents, although having been there that feels like a stretch. Fukaji is home to a tiny airport but nothing else. The best way to get a feel for the area is to walk the length of the island chain.

Starting from the port at Aka, the bridge extends to the north of Geruma. There is a flat walk on the path following the highway on the east of the island but why take it easy? A lesser trodden path extends straight through the middle of the island to one of its highest points. The infrastructure is amazing given just how remote this place is. There is no way that a small island miles off the coast of Great Britain would have a multi-million pound mega bridge.

Walking around the coast it’s not hard to see why they call these islands “Kerama Blue”. The brilliant azure of the water is breathtaking. There’s plenty more exploring to do for now. At the other side of the bridge is where the path up the hillside begins. This isn’t any old sheep trail, of course. An immaculate concrete staircase waits for any intrepid travellers, complete with a safety rail. I didn’t encounter another soul along the length of the path.

On a slightly disconcerting note, part of the way up the hillside some of the railings had been damaged. It was a little too reminiscent of Jurassic Park or Dino Crisis. What beast could have done this? There is very little vandalism around these parts. There are occasional deer, but it would have had to be a pretty beefy deer to do that damage.

I would be lying if I said it was an easy walk. The steps were steep and much of the route was exposed, but I struggled on in the heat. I was hoping for a trademark Japanese vending machine at the top, although I foolishly forgot to bring coins with me. There was no vending machine, but there was a rather spectacular view and a little shelter.

The path down to the south side of Geruma is somewhat more sparse, and not quite as welcoming. Was I supposed to be on this path? I was definitely conscious of being shot for accidentally wandering onto a secret military installation. Either that or a long forgotten experimental amusement park…

Geruma really is tiny. The school is outstanding looking, there’s a diving B&B, a tiny restaurant, and a historic house. That’s really about it. There are some houses, yes, but little else of note. It’s one of these places that is slightly more sparse than even the Google map shows it to be. I was hoping to be able to book a meal at the restaurant on Geruma, but our visit happened to coincide with a holiday period around Halloween so many of the islanders were observing the festival and not at work. Seemingly for days and days, as we later found to our disadvantage on Zamami island.

As I walked around the desert street(s) of Geruma hamlet in search of the historic property in the area, I came across only one other individual. An elderly man who half spoke, half gestured whether I was interested in seeing the Takara Residence. I wasn’t going to turn down this spontaneous invitation! This 19th century Okinawan household is surrounded by walls made of coral limestone, and was built for a clan who served as captains of the government boats around the Ryuku islands (source).

The elderly man appeared to be acting as caretaker for the property, and invited me to have a look around and take some photos. I tried to offer money but he refused only stating “service”. This is a phenomenon seen in Japan (and Korea) where, at seemingly random times, things are given to you for free. We had it at a burger place in Naha when the guy gave us free fried chicken with our meals for no particular reason.

The house is relatively compact but well preserved, and the architecture is beautifully simple. After a quick look around, I bid the caretaker farewell and continued on my journey out to Fukaji. I really thought I would have come across another vending machine…

The view from the bridge to Fukaji looking back at Geruma island is stunning. If you could go to primary school anywhere in the world, this would be the place to do it. Imagine having this as the view out of your window. How would any other school even begin to compare to this?

A walk further up the road brings you to the quaint Fukaji airport, which is a third class airport shared between the commercial sector and the Japan Self-Defence Forces. It is tiny, and the building was deserted when I visited to use the bathroom. I was hoping for a vending machine too but even that was too much for the most remote end of the island chain. This is another area that doesn’t look like people should be wandering about, yet there is a path leading up from the airport car park to an observatory.

Yet again I was the only person walking the trail. I trekked up to the observatory through vegetation that was in need of trimming, and was treated to some excellent views looking out over the airport and the other islands. It was a bit of a hike to get to the end, but well worth it.

As part of an experiment to see how far WiFi extended along the islands, I took out my phone and was able to see a bunch of networks at the far end of the bridge to Fukaji. Even in this paradise you can still see at least four networks. It’s the clash between Japan’s desire to preserve the surrounding environment and the relentless march of technology. But hey, if I can have 70 Mbps internet and sit on a beach with white coral sands in the middle of nowhere, sign me up.

I never did get a can from a vending machine on Geruma or Fukaji. As I passed the inn on Geruma I did see they had a vending machine, but I didn’t have any coins and it felt a little awkward to barge in during the holiday season and ask for change from some strangers. I know they would have been accommodating, but it felt like an imposition nevertheless.

I made my way back along the coast road, giving my legs a rest from hill climbing as the sun started to make its descent. The walk was a great way of experiencing these tiny islands and all they have to offer. Admittedly, they’re not rich in places to go or things to see, but the views are spectacular and the whole experience is rejuvenating. In a far flung future where we can work entirely remotely, Aka island is high up on my list for office potential.